I’m not sure which one will hit you first – the somber music or the long line of well-wishers. For me, it was the music – that slow, sad-sounding music that is probably only played at times like these. Knowing that Koreans put on their stoic face is interesting – I saw no one outwardly weeping or drawing attention to themselves. It may be different at the funeral (2pm Sunday, at the National Assembly).

Start by exiting the City Hall Station (line 1, exit 5) – you’ll see the white tents and hear the somber hymns played over an impromptu sound system. Sign your name in the guestbook, along with a message if you like, then move through the snaking line underneath a grid of white tents. My plan was to proceed through the line of people and pay my respects – although I didn’t expect to be the only foreigner in sight:

The grass had already started turning into mud by mid-day, and the condensation made it about five degrees hotter under the tent than under the sun. A table with bottles of water was kindly set up; not too much later, white flowers were handed for one to place at the memorial. Lay the flower at the altar, following the line of people as you make your way to a long mat rolled out over the muddy grass. A speaker spoke some heartfelt words, albeit as though he’s spoken them a hundred times, then the call to bow went out.

At this point, the uninitiated might freeze or simply be unsure of what’s going on, and probably be ignored or forgiven for the faux pas. Korea still follows certain Confucian beliefs, especially in ceremonies such as this one. The bow, if you’ve been to a templestay, is the same. With your palms pressed together, kneel gracefully, bring your chest to your knees, and touch your head and hands to the ground. After a moment (ideally in sync with others around you), push yourself to a kneeling position, curl your toes under, and rise slowly and gracefully. It doesn’t have to be perfect – no one’s bow was – but the meaning and the desire to be respectful is paramount. If this is physically difficult, standing respectfully and eyeing the huge picture surrounded by thousands of flowers is also acceptable.

The procession eventually headed towards the side exit as a new group of people moved in. For better or worse, it does feel a little assembly line at time – but the meaning you take from it is your choice. Slow and reflective is the mindset – and fancy dress was certainly not a requirement.

I’m not sure if drinking rice wine is somehow related to the memorial, or if they just happened to be using the open area at Seoul Plaza at the same time.

© Chris Backe – 2009 http://chrisinsouthkorea.blogspot.com/

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