Korean “sundae,” also, and less confusingly spelled, “soondae”, is one of those foods on the list with bbondegi and sannakji that brave eaters brag about eating and picky eaters loath to even image. But it doesn’t belong on this list. The ingredients, pig’s intestines stuffed with cellophane noodles, barley, and pork blood, give the impression that it must taste strange and unfamiliar. But the truth is, soondae doesn’t have a challenging flavour or a peculiar texture. It’s actually a really familiar tasting and comforting food that reminds me of roasted chicken.

Soondae dates back to the Joseon period and has regional variations across the country. Seoul Sundae, a tiny stall in Daegu’s newly renovated, Gyodong market, makes one of the most popular varieties from Seoul and does it better than anywhere else I’ve tried. Unlike most street vendors, Seoul Soondae is hand-made on premises by a pair of brusque ajoomas who have become famous for their impeccably fresh product that attracts huge crowds on the weekends.

The soondae they make here is supple and robust with hints of ginger and comes with liver (“gan” 간) and kidney (“yeomtong” 염통). The liver and kidney are a bit more challenging, and those brave souls who are still a bit on the squeamish side can order it without. Just say “soondae man jusaeyo” (순대만 주세요) meaning “only soondae please.” Seoul Soondae is also served with a mixture of coarse salt,  ground redpepper, and pickled radish (“danmooji” 단무지), a specialty of the region. Soondae pairs well with black beer or stout and is best on a rainy day in the fall. You can also have soondae in soup Sundaeguk (순대국). Check your local Emart for soondae in vaccuum packs that are pre-made and can be steamed at home.

Seoul Sundae is located down the alley opposite Dongseong Art Hall where the Daegu Cinematheque is located. Walk to the end of the alley and you will find them on the left side, just before the alley turns (check the map). You will know you are at the right place if you are greeted by an impatient lady missing a few fingers (not soondae slicing related I have been told) who will refer to you as “thank you” and let out a raucous laugh if you order soondae in Korean. You may have to reassure her that you do actually want soondae as she often assumes that foreigners don’t like it. It’s sold by weight per won, one thousand won’s worth is a small portion and two thousand won’s worth is a large one. Plan for long waits during peek hours.

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