The One One Four: So, before we talk about the sex industry, what brought you to Korea?

MT: Well, it’s a somewhat different trajectory than the one a lot of Westerners living here follow.  I came over on a scholarship, thinking I would study Korean language and culture.  In the end, I basically ended up being an English teacher, but that’s a whole other sordid tale.

The One One Four: What was the first time like?

MT: I had a friend, who lived in the same apartment building as me.  He was trying to learn Korean and someone had told him that ‘An-ma’ meant massage.  There was a building in our neighborhood with a big sign that said “An-ma”.  He went there very innocently, just wanting a massage.  When they told him the price, he figured it had to me more than just a massage.  As soon as he told me about it, I knew I had to check it out.  I took the elevator to the fourth floor.  I didn’t know it at the time, but I had stumbled into one of the better an-mas I would ever visit.

The One One Four: What was that like?

MT: First you pay the madame, then a bodyguard-type guy takes you to a room about as nice as a moderately priced hotel home.  There’s a bed, armoire, TV and fridge.  But, the bathroom is larger than the bedroom.  In the bathroom there’s a new toothbrush with toothpaste on it waiting for you.  Eventually, the girl comes in.  She’s maybe 21, thin, attractive and wearing a little skirt and a bikini top and heels.  At this point you’re expected to keep your hands to yourself, unless you’re a regular and know the girl.  You can imagine the rest, I think.  After the act itself there’s a real massage.

The One One Four: How much did you pay?

MT: They are usually around w200,000

The One One Four:  Is that the average price? Are there less expensive places?

MT: If you see a barber pole and then another smaller barber pole in the stairwell, usually leading down to a basement, but sometimes to an upper floor, those are usually a massage with a “happy ending.”  Those are typically about w70,000 and often it’s an ajumma, not a young girl.  The girls in the an-mas are almost invariably young and attractive.

The One One Four: But, there are other kinds of places?

MT: Of course, there are red light districts in some cities as well.  It’s hit or miss whether or not they’ll see foreign clients.  I’ve found that speaking some Korean helps.  If you ask how much in Korean with a decent accent, you’re much more likely to be let in.  I’ve seen the coffee girls riding around on the scooters, but I don’t really know how they operate, so I can’t help you out there.

The One One Four: You’ve never done the coffee girl thing?

MT: No, I’m pretty much done with the whole scene, now. As far as I know, you order coffee and a girl comes to deliver it and it goes from there.

The One One Four:  You mean are done with seeing sex workers? Why is that?

MT: I have a girlfriend now, and I suppose I’ve done some growing up since that time.

The One One Four: Have you visited brothels in other countries?

MT: Yep, all over Asia, Thailand of course, Japan…

The One One Four: How does Korea compare?

MT: Its better organized and safer, for the ladies as well as the customers. Korea tends to not like foreigners in some places where its almost the opposite elsewhere. I think there is less quote-unquote forced prostitution in Korea although G.I’s tell me that near the bases there are a lot of Filipino girls who say they where brought over here to sing a band and then were made to work in the sex industry to work off their debt to the people who brought them over. I’m not going to say that doesn’t happen, but I get the sense that there’s not so much over here.

The One One Four: Does that bother you? The fact that some women are forced into the sex trade?

MT: Um, yeah it does, more now than it used to. But I don’t want to get into the ethics of it.

The One One Four: Fair enough.  What about the legality of it? You don’t worry about being caught?

MT: There is really a grey area in Korea. Its allowed to go on so long as its done in a way that’s approved of. Ive never heard of anyone getting arrested. I mean its right out in the open. There are red light districts that have been in the same place for years, decades probably.

The One One Four: In your opinion, what are the average Korean’s views like on the issue.

MT: I think they have a very good understanding of what it is and that its not something natural, something they can’t stop. As I said there its well organized and controlled and most of the power to control it comes from the government and organized crime.

The One One Four: Does organized crime run many of the brothels?

MT: That I don’t know but I would have to say that they protect them and that the brothels pay for that protection. I think most, if not all Koreans know that, which is why the women are usually pretty safe. I wouldn’t want to fuck around and get on the bad side of anyone in the brothels.

The One One Four: What are Juicy bars?

MT: Those are mainly for G.I’s. They are bars when you buy the ladies drinks and they sit with you. You usually strike a deal with the house and then you can go to a love motel with them. I’ve only heard about them, though, they are not my style. They usually employ foreign women from the Philippines of Russia, its a whole different scene, not a safe, not as organized.

The One One Four: You say safe, but I wonder about STD’s are they not a problem?

MT: Surprisingly, not nearly what it is in other countries. Korea tends to be pretty clean and these days the ladies all insist on condoms. I’ve heard that its different with Korean men, that they don’t like to wear condoms and that some ladies with do it without one, but that’s probably on the decline. No one wants to get sick.

The One One Four: You always use condoms?

MT: Oh yeah, always. All the places I’ve been to in Korea insist on it.

The One One Four: What about in other countries like Thailand.

MT: Thailand is Thailand dude, its the wild west out there. You can pretty much do anything for a price.  There isn’t that sense of respect you see here.

The One One Four: Sense of respect? Do you mean Korean’s respect sex workers?

MT: If the prostitutes are Korean, yes, in a way. As Koreans they are part of societal structure and have a place in it, even if that place is low. If you are not Korean its totally different. You don’t fit in the heirarchy and that’s almost worse. I’ve seen it in the way the ladies treat me and in the way Koreans in general treat me, you know? Versus Koreans.

The One One Four: So Korean sex workers treat you differently?

MT: I assume so, but I can’t really know for sure. Its more in the way they act. They don’t seem as, I don’t know, as jaded as the ladies in Thailand. They kind of expect more from you, expect you to behave. I guess it depends on the kind of places you go. The red light places or juicy bars might be different.

The One One Four: Have you been to “Hooker Hill” in Itaewon?

MT: Nope, that’s not my scene either but lots of my friends have. Some of them might talk to you if you want.

The One One Four: I might take you up on that. Thanks for your time.

MT: No problem.

If you know anyone involved in the sex industry against their will go to http://www.wm1366.or.kr/ or  http://www.humantrafficking.org/ and contact your local police or government agency and know that: ”The Republic of Korea Government was placed in Tier 1 in the 2007 U.S. Department of State’s Trafficking in Persons Report for fully complying with the Trafficking Victims Protection Act’s minimum standards for the elimination of trafficking. There are no reports of government officials complicit in trafficking. ^{7″ -www.humantrafficking.org}

The One One Four Goes Behind the Scenes of Korea’s Sex Industry is a post from: The One One Four

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Night skating is fairly well-lit – then you’ll see the larger crowds. The area was mostly cordoned off during the recent Big Air snowboarding festival, but on weekdays is less busy than the weekends. It’s open fairly late – until 10pm on the weekdays and 11pm on the weekends or holidays.

One of the ubiquitous photo booths – surprisingly set up off the ice for pictures while on the ice. You can either get a friend to push the button or run around to a side gate to the left and run back onto the ice in time for the picture.

Foreigner-friendly:

Convenience facilities:

Worth the visit:

© Chris Backe – 2009

Ice Skating Opens in Seoul is a post from: The One One Four

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As promised, this year’s SantaCon Seoul proved to be a merrymaking event. The pictures and description from theyeogiyo.com didn’t quite do the concept justice: dress up as Santa, enjoy meeting other Santas, enjoy a beverage or three, and so on. Think of Santacon like a costume party where everyone wears the same costume. If you want a history lesson, check out this version that claims some level of official-ness. The short version: 1994, San Francisco, guy pulls a prank with people wearing Santa suits; resurrected years later by a second group in a hope to play with the image of Santa Claus.

The party started at an unusually early 7pm at Ho Bar III in Hongdae:

Santa had to take time out of his busy drinking schedule for a game of darts.

Walking from Ho Bar III to our next destination – Jess.

Where are we supposed to go? Santa can deliver gifts to the world in one night, but everyone knows it’s the reindeer that have the sense of direction. The fearless leaders carried whistles serving as both directional markers and to impart a sense of urgency; “Santa’s got a schedule to keep!”, the whistles seemed to say.

Club Jess, featuring the band Fighting Daddy. Good sound, and they entertained the crowd, Santas and normally-dressed alike.

Mixing and mingling at Hongdae Park during a few minutes of walking led us to Afterglow:

Plenty of room for pole dancing (not pictured to protect the drunk and/or bad dancers – you had to be there to see it, sorry) and chatting with your fellow adventuresome types.

Jane’s Groove was the next stop, but that’s where my girlfriend and I called it a night. The hat was beginning to get itchy, and the beard had long been stuffed into the bag along with our jackets.

For more information about future events or other events being held around the world, check out http://santacon.info, Wikipedia, or this history of ‘the early years’, as they’re called. While SantaCon Seoul centered on going to bars, one doesn’t necessarily need to drink to enjoy the camaraderie – or the fun.

© Chris Backe – 2009

SantaCon Seoul 2009 is a post from: The One One Four

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Not to be confused with the King Sejong Memorial Hall, the Sejong Center for the Performing Arts, Sejong’s statue in Yeouido Park, or anything else featuring Korea’s most famous king, the Story of Sejong recently opened underneath the new statue of King Sejong.

The new statue was first unveiled on Hangeul Day (October 7th), requiring five months, the bronze of 32 million ten-won coins, and the clay of 54,000 rice bowls. The backside of the statue is one entry to the museum / display, which is also connected to the Gwanghwamun Plaza and the Sejong Center for the Performing Arts.

Where most other displays of King Sejong around Seoul are primarily concerned with his accomplishments, this one also seemed interested in telling us his life story. Although directions and titles are available in several languages (including Spanish, curiously) only Korean and English are available on the displays. I had no idea that he was “endowed with absolute perfect pitch” or that his favorite food was meat and cherries.

Several exhibits built into the wall display inventions or writings. To the left is the Samgang Haengsildo – the Conduct of the Three Bonds. To the right, a singijeon – a Korean rocket-propelled arrow. Since it was invented during Sejong reign, it merits a place in the museum.

A guide shows off the Joseon Dynasty’s understanding of the stars. Below, a recreated sundial may never show the proper time, but definitely helps people to understand how it was used.

King Sejong was quite the musician as well as inventor. Beyond being able to tell which notes of the pyeongyeong, or stone chimes, were out of tune, King Sejong also created jeongganbo, a form of musical notation that captures the unique characteristics of Korean music.

An interactive display demonstrating the jeongganbo notation system – place the foam blocks over your choice of instruments and listen to the result.

The story of King Sejong creating hangeul (the Korean alphabet) is displayed quite nicely. Originally known as the hunmin jeongeum, King Sejong first invented it in 1443 but spent three years testing it. Not too many people can write a book out of a new language, but 용비어천가 (yongbi eocheonga, or ‘Songs of Flying Dragons’) is considered an epic. The scene above pictures Sejong officially spreading the new Korean alphabet.

The 훈민정음해례본 (hunmin jeongeum haeryebon, or ‘Explanations and Examples of Correct Sounds to Instruct the People’). Written by Sejong and other scholars of the time, it introduces the new letters and sounds – many of which are still used to this day. First published around 1446, it has been designated a National Treasure and is part of UNESCO’s ‘Memory of the World’ list.

No tourist attraction would be complete without a souvenir shop, of course.

The area definitely explains a lot in a tourist-friendly way without being patronizing – and being part of Gwanghwamun Plaza means you don’t have to go out of your way to see it. The next time you want to see how much one person can accomplish, this is the place to check out.

Ratings (out of 5 taeguks):
Ease to arrive:

Foreigner-friendly:

Convenience facilities:

Worth the visit:

Directions to the Story of Sejong: Take line 5 of the Seoul subway system to the Gwanghwamun station. Follow the signs for Gwanghwamun Plaza, or take exit 2 to street level and look for the statue. Open Tuesday – Sunday (closed Monday) from 10:30 am – 10:30 pm, with last admission at 10 pm. Free admission; handicapped and wheelchair friendly.

© Chris Backe – 2009

Destination: The Story of Sejong is a post from: The One One Four

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Across the street from the King Sejong Memorial Hall rests the Hongneung Arboretum. The arboretum is cleverly disguised as the Korea Forest Research Institute, as the focus is more on research than tourism. That explains why it’s only open to the public on Saturdays and Sundays.

Some of the trees in the Conifer garden.

Hongneung is so named because the area was once the tomb of the last Empress. After her tomb was moved elsewhere in 1919, the area became a protected historic forest and Korea’s first arboretum in 1922. Although the area was decimated by the Korean War (only a few relics remain), it was rebuilt in the mid-1960’s with several specialized gardens that still exist today. The result is a much more natural-looking ‘forest’, albeit with a few of life’s modern conveniences. Currently, the area has 14 specialized gardens, with a total of over 2,000 different species in 157 families.

The Forest Science Exhibition Hall – the only open building in the area. Opened on November 6, 1999, this three-story museum is one part commercially oriented (and what isn’t in Korea?), one part preservation oriented, and one part ironic. Is it surprising to anyone else that a forest exhibition hall is made of… wood? Ask for an English-language brochure while here (young-eo an-nae is-so-yo?) – it’s the only information in English around. Start on the second floor:

The water cycle displayed with some modern technology – if I seen this when I was a kid I might’ve paid more attention in science classes…

Edible wild plants and medicinal herbs – while not as common as you might think, you never know what you’ll see while meandering about the arboretum.

A few dioramas show how forests and humans form a ‘partnership’ – in other words, the various ways the forest is used by humans.

The third floor holds some more sights and sounds – some motion activated, or in this case, hand-cranked:

Yes, that’s a traditional ship’s steering wheel attached – turning it either way turned the various ‘gears’ of nature.

The first floor is chiefly about products made from the forest – reminding me more of a trade fair than a museum:

Several different companies had booths (but no people) showing off their nature-manufactured, human-improved wares.

Having had my fill of museums, it’s time to get back into the arboretum. The Deciduous garden was the next one we saw:

Still quite colorful even though it’s mid-November.

Excuse us – this is our walking area

Despite splitting down the middle, this tree has grown quite tall.

The arboretum offers several different paths – the longest route would probably take a full day to traverse, but we felt quite satisfied with the couple hours spent amidst the trees and shrubs. That there are few signs and only one map posted by the entrance means you’ll need to keep your bearings, or you may find yourself walking longer than anticpated. If you find yourself approaching the closed-off area, it’s time to head back the other way.

It’s one of the most authentic looking and feeling forests within the boundaries of Seoul, even if it is only open on the weekends. Considering how much of what’s supposed to be ‘natural’ seems much more constructed, being authentic is high praise. It’s almost certainly the prettiest during the spring or fall, but even in late fall there was enough to see. There aren’t many places to sit down with a picnic, but a resourceful expat can likely make do. Bring a snack or drink – only a few older vending machines with drinks await you once inside.

Directions to Hongneung Arboretum: Take line 6 of the Seoul subway system to the Korea University station. Take exit 3 to street level, and walk for about 50 meters. Cross the first major road you see (Hoegiro), then turn right. Walk under a bridge and past the Korea Institute of Science and Technology. Turn left into the Korea Forest Research Institute after the wooden fence turns into a gate. Free admission; open ONLY on Saturdays and Sundays. Open 10am-5pm from March to October; 10am-4pm from November to February.

Ratings (out of 5 taeguks):
Ease to arrive:

Foreigner-friendly:

Convenience facilities:

Worth the visit:

© Chris Backe – 2009

Crossposted on Chris in South Korea

Destination: Hongneung Arboretum is a post from: The One One Four

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